above: toothbrush, container, rag, filth.
Today: Filth. Not the fun kind.
Photos in auto repair manuals typically show perfect, clean, shiny new parts being assembled by a man who wears a white lab coat and a tie. He has clean hands. The parts fit together perfectly. Do not believe this fanciful imagery, even for a moment… it is but an illusion.
Car repair is a realm of filth and grime, of oozing petroleum byproducts, toxic fluids, of bits of pulverized metal, rubber and plastic and thousands upon thousands of tiny particles of our dirty little world, all stuck together and adhered onto whatever you need to work on.
Welcome to car repair.
Dealing with filth is one of the most formidable challenges for a DIY mechanic. When I think of the worst project nightmares from my past, filth nearly always played a prominent role. Freshly packed bearings accidentally dropped in the dirt, threaded fasteners stripped by hidden grit, clean new parts fouled. Not to mention all of the crap that got stuck into my hair, jammed under my fingernails and tracked into my house.
How do you battle with filth and emerge victorious?
Auto-Didactic Moment 2: Automotive Filth and How to Manage It
There are a vast array of spray-on/hose-off engine cleaners waiting for you and your money at your local parts store. I’ve tried many, and most of them suck. At best, they’ll take off the top layer of grime but leave behind enough dirt to not have really solved the problem.
There is a place for power washers in filth management, but it is a limited one, and over-enthusiastic use can lead to much grief. Electrical parts and connectors are especially vulnerable to water under pressure, a sure recipe for causing corrosion, short circuits and component failures. Still, it can be a quick way to perform some general cleaning if done with great care. There have been times when I wished I had access to a power washer, but I’ve always managed to get by without one.
Commercially available parts washing tanks are another solution. They contain an electric pump that pours a continuous stream of clean, recycled solvent that you can direct onto the part you’re cleaning. I may spring for one someday, but good ones aren’t cheap and take up valuable shop space. Perhaps more importantly, you have to remove parts from the car to put them into the washer. Engine blocks, transmissions and other large, lumpy items won’t fit.
When it’s all said and done, my favored method of filth removal is elbow grease. I use gloves, low odor mineral spirits (paint thinner), various crud removal tools, a couple of old toothbrushes and a pile of expendable terry cloth rags.
I like to use low-odor mineral spirits to dissolve and clean filth; it’s cheap, very effective and relatively safe. That said, like most solvents it can be toxic and flammable if misused. Common sense applies here, make sure you use it in a well-ventilated area, try not to take a bath in it and keep open flames and sparks away from your work area. I would avoid using other solvents (i.e carb cleaner, lacquer thinner, etc.) except under very controlled circumstances. And for god’s sake, don’t even THINK about using gasoline unless you’d like to spend a few years in a burn unit.
Some of the best crud removal tools I’ve found are ones that everyone has access to: old spoons of various sizes. Seriously. If you can’t sacrifice a few from your kitchen, keep an eye out for them at garage sales and thrift stores. Spoons work well because of their curved and dished shape: many of the surfaces you’ll be trying to clean are far from flat, and a spoon will allow you to get into them more easily than a flat scraper. Other good tools include putty knives and old screwdrivers… really, just about any tool that will let you scrape and dislodge things will work.
Old toothbrushes function well as filth scrubbers because of their size and configuration and are another tool that is available to everyone. They’re easy to handle and fit into tight spaces. But really, any stiff-bristled brush will work well for the job. Just pick something expendable, because its life will be fairly short once you immerse it in solvent and grease.
Start the job off with your crud removal tools and physically remove as much crud as you can. In this step, you’re just going for the big chunks, save the detailing for later. Important: take it easy and don’t be too aggressive or you’ll scratch and gouge things up.
Once you’ve got the big chunks off, it’s time to get out the mineral spirits. Pour some in a small plastic container and grab a toothbrush. Take the brush and use it to transfer the spirits onto the crud and let it soak in. Get the area to be cleaned wetted thoroughly and then start scrubbing. Keep going until you can see the surface of the part, then grab a rag and wipe the part clean… a little extra mineral spirits on the rag will help. Clean in phases, clean just a small area at a time, and keep at it. You will probably need to repeat the cycle a few times before you’re done.
A precaution: as you release dirt and crud, make sure you control where it goes. Don’t let it fall into the engine and don’t let dirt-laden solvent dribble into where you don’t want it, particularly around electrical components. It’s worth spending a few minutes before you begin to spot possible problem areas, like open intake ports, open spark plug holes or electrical connectors. I’m either very careful around such areas, or have plugged or covered them with clean rags or plastic.
A Word: Marron: Chestnuts preserved in syrup, flavored with vanilla.
A Link:Art, cars, artcars… a variety.